“Clever” is one of the most used words when describing the food of chef Joey Ward. Since 2013 he headed up the kitchen at Gunshow, restaurateur Kevin Gillespie’s fun take on dim-sum dining.
He astounded diners’ taste buds with dishes like an Egg-in-a-Hole that was actually wagyu tartare on brioche with white truffle. He teased us with “satsumas” that were actually sweet potato, jalapeno, and Pop Rocks. We were dazzled by his wily technique with plating and even more by his way with flavor.
Since he announced that he was opening a restaurant of his own, diners have anticipated what a Joey Ward restaurant would be like. The wait is over. On November 13 Southern Belle began serving food and one-week later Georgia Boy opened its doors. Well, not exactly “doors.” Reader, read on.
The restaurants are located in a space next to the historic Plaza Theater. Southern Belle is no-reservations with a bistro meets living room vibe. There are just 45 seats for the small plates style menu. Scan the room for an homage to women—women Ward loves, admires, and takes inspiration from. Above the bar blue neon reads “Bless your heart.”
The menu of small plates is meant for sharing. Begin with crispy skins—not only pork rinds, but chicken, beef and veggie. Don’t skip the blue crab Beau Monde, Ward’s take on the popular dip.
Beef short ribs braised in Dr. Pepper have all the warm spices of fall and are fork tender. There is but one dessert on the menu and it comes with a show. Warm sticky toffee-coffee pudding is a treat for two prepared tableside with the pomp and circumstance of dry ice.
Speaking of pomp and circumstance, adjacent restaurant Georgia Boy is a pre-ticketed (through Resy) tasting experience. Ward and team, including chef de cuisine Spencer Gomez, perform four seatings of eight guests Wednesday through Saturday. We used the term “perform,” because of the multi-sensory experience Ward goes for inside the laboratory like space.
To enter the secret space, one must for head to the back library where a few small amuse bouche dishes get the evening started. Entrance to the room is granted by pulling a special book from the shelf. The bookcase opens, revealing a laboratory like room with an open kitchen and tall tables. Everything is sleek in colors of black and grey. It appears serious until the crew begin their magic of dazzling. “We want to have lots of fun…a true experience tied into the eating,” Ward told us.
There are many more secrets at Southern Belle and Georgia Boy but we don’t want to give away all the fun. Experience it for yourself.
Southern Belle/Georgia Boy (1043 Ponce de Leon Avenue NE, Atlanta; southernbelleatl.com)
